Ljubljana
Ljubljana [1], also known as Laibach, its German name, and English name until 1945, is the capital of Slovenia.
Understand
Slovenia is, arguably, the cutest of the formerly communist countries, and Ljubljana ("lyoob-lyAH-nah") is a great little city full of charm. It's pretty easy to have a good time here. It's full of galleries and museums and young artists. The population of the city is around 330,000.
Orientation
The Ljubljanica river flows through the center of town, past Baroque buildings and under the ramparts of the ancient castle on the hill. The new city and modern-day commercial core lies to the west of the river, while the east side has Ljubljana's old city and the castle. Connecting the two are a number of bridges, the most famous of which is the Tromostovje (triple) bridge.
Get in
By plane
Ljubljana's pint-sized Brnik Airport (Aerodrom Ljubljana) [2], located 27 km north of the city, is the country's main international gateway and the hub of Slovenian national carrier Adria Airways [3]. The airport is serviced by most neighboring countries and low-cost carriers easyJet and Wizzair. The airport has the bare necessities (bank, ATM, cafe) but little else; a two-stage renovation is under way, with new wings opening in late 2007 and 2010.
There are regular public buses (€2.50, 50 min) and minibuses (€4.00, 30 min) to the bus/train station at Trg OF. Alternatively, a metered taxi to the center will cost about €30.
By train
Ljubljana is the hub of Slovenia's rail system. There are direct international connections to Budapest (approx. 5-7 hours), Munich, Trieste, Venice (approx. 4 hours), Vienna (6 hours, special offer for 29 euros), Zurich and Zagreb, Belgrade and up to Thessaloniki, as well as local trains throughout the country — no point in Slovenia is more than 3 hours away. The train station is on Trg Osvobodilne Frente (OF) at the northern edge of downtown, at walking distance to most hotels.
By bus
Ljubljana bus station (avtobusna postaja) is right next to the train station and has services throughout the country and to neighbors as well. The station has several useful schedule search engines (also in English) for working out connections around the country.
Get around
Ljubljana has a good bus network, but it is small enough that you will be able to walk everywhere in the centre. You can pick up a free city map in one of the Tourist Information Offices either in the train station or in the city centre (Adamič-Lundrovo nabrežje 2).
The train and bus station are within easy walking distance of the centre of town - which is roughly speaking the "Three bridges" area. From the station take any of the roads heading into town and this will lead you to this area.
Taxis are very cheap, and between two or three people it can be a convenient way to get back to the hotel if you're not in the centre. Taxi Laguna (tel. 080 11 17) and Taxi Metro (tel. 080 11 90) are considered the cheapest. These are free numbers, so can use a phone booth to make a call. Notice that not all taxis charge the same fare.
See
- Old Ljubljana - monuments, historic buildings, churches. Purposeful wandering can through the town below the castle will lead you to interesting squares, lanes and buildings. Look out for the dragon motif throughout the city.
- Zmajski Most (Dragon Bridge) - Guarded by four dragons, which have become a symbol of the city. Be careful around this area, as it is on a major thoroughafare and near misses (and worse) between inattentive tourists and traffic are common.
- Stari trg - This street has local designer shops, trendy cafes etc. If you are up for an alternative, interesting buy then the so-called 'old Ljubljana' is your cup of tea. It is situated on the east side of the river (cross Tromostovje bridge, go straight ahed for 30 metres to the City hall then turn right into the narrow street surrounded by medieval houses). The street is called Mestni trg, and later it changes to Gornji trg.
- Triple Bridge
- Ljubljana Castle - You can catch the "tourist train" from the triple bridge to the castle, walk up the (steep) hill on the side of the castle, or take the Funicular Railway to the top. Entrance to the Courtyard, Chapel and Gift shop is free, but there is a charge for access to the tower (with it's fine views over the old city to the Sava River and Julian Alps) which includes a 3D Movie of the history of Ljubljana from pre-historic settlement through to Roman Empire through to modern times.
- Roman Ruins - a short walk west of the centre of town are the remains of the Roman City Walls, including a number of columns from an entrance gate.
- National Museum of Contemporary History. Celovška cesta 23, tel. 01 300 96 10, fax 01 433 82 44, [4]. Slovenia's 20th-century history museum gives you a real sense of the country's roller-coaster ride through regime after regime. Its immersive exhibits include a walk-through WWI trench, with sound effects. In another room, a portrait of Stalin lies smashed on the ground. The last exhibit shows the events aroung the Declaration of Independence from Yugoslavia and the Ten Day War with the Yugoslav Federal Army. The exhibits covering WW1, WW2 and Communist Slovenia are translated to English and German, but strangely the Slovenian Independence Exhibit is not. You walk through the pleasent Tivoli park to get here.
- Independence Square - Where crowds gathered as Slovenia announced its secession from the Yugoslav Federation. Given its importance to Slovene history, it's current use as a carpark is surprising. On the square is the International Business Centre, across the road is the Slovene Parliament (with it's decorative, nude statues of Slovene's at work and leisure).
- Tivoli Gallery - International centre of Graphic Art. Pod turnom 3, tel. 01 241 38 00, [5]. Specialised in art shows, often in collaboration with international institutions. Open Tu-Sa 10.00 - 18.00, Su 12.00 - 18.00, Mo closed.
Do
- Water City of Atlantis is water park offering 14 pools, thermal baths, slides and saunas. Special section is dedicated for children. It is located within the BTC City Shopping District. Prices: from €6 to €14.(Website: www.atlantis-vodnomesto.si)
- Laguna Fun & Spa offers open-air pools during the day and themed parties at night. It is located within the Ljubljana Resort. Prices from €6 to €12. Website: www.laguna.si. Laguna is only open from june to september.
- Vodafone Live! Arena is a great place to spend an evening. Main features include bowling, pool, laser games and a state-of-the-art 3D XpanD cinema theatre (the latter from €4.59 to €7.93). (BTC City Shopping District)
- Kolosej (The Colosseum) is Ljubljana's main multiplex. Unlike in the rest of Europe, all movies are presented in orginal audio language (mostly English) while equipped with Slovenian subtitles. This does not apply to computer-rendered and animated movies, which are dubbed for the children. Prices: from €3.94 to €4.59. Special discounts on Tuesdays. (BTC City Shopping District) www.kolosej.si
- Ljubljana Zoo is one of the most beautiful Zoos of Europe - Tickets from €5.00 to €6.00.
Learn
Work
Buy
Eat
Budget
- Hot-Horse, Trubarjeva 31 (other outlets in Tivoli Park and BTC). A fast food joint with a difference: all the meat used is horse meat! The star of the menu is the horse burger, which is gigantic and costs €3. Unfortunately the Trubarjeva section has been replaced with a "crap in the bread" called "Red 'n hot horse". Don't be fooled for it really doesn't have ANYTHING to do with quality.
- Falafel, Trubarjeva 40, 041/752 977. This middle eastern dish, together with other meat and vegetables dishs is served in the small fast-food resataurent next to the Dragnos bridge. The cost for a menu is around 3 euro, including 2 dishes, tea and a sweet.
- Nobel Burek, Miklosiceva ?? (You can't miss it - green and yellow sign, a lot of people standing in line). The place where young people go to get food late in the evening or at night. Different kinds of bureks available. Considered to be the best burek in town.
Mid-range
- Gostilna Sokol. Ciril Metodov trg 18, tel. 01 439 68 55 [6]. This restaurant deals up authentic Slovenian cuisine, complete with all waiters and waitresses dressed up in traditional costume. The food is hearty and served in generous gut-busting portions and very good value for money. The fish cooked in a paper bag with vegetables is highly recommended. There is plenty of meat, fish and vegetable dishes to choose from. The only downside was the house red, which is very sharp and quite cold, but this is a minor quibble.
- Julija. Stari trg 9. Right next to Luka’s, serving similar fare of Italian pasta and risotto dishes. Not quite a nice as Luka’s but still a good filling meal, and at a reasonable price. Pasta or risotto dishes are under SIT 1,500 (€6.26)
- Jurman, Zaloška 151, tel. 051 358 358. Open daily from 11.00 to 23.00. Affordable prices and very diverse choices. They have themed rooms, such as castle room and fishing room. Children can play in a designated indoor and outdoor playgrounds. The staff is friendly and the service is fast; it usually never takes longer than 10 minutes for 2 or 3 people. You are advised to make a reservation in advance.
- Luka Gourmet Lunch Cafe. Stari trg 11. One of a line of cafes on Stari Trg with outside seating. Serves up tasty, mainly pasta dishes with reasonable prices and friendly service. Most lunch dishes are about SIT 1,300 (€5.42).
Splurge
- Gostilna Pod Rožnikom (formerly known as Gostilna Čad) specialises in dishes from southeastern Europe. They are located near Ljubljana Zoo. You are advised to book in advance (tel. 01 251 34 46). Prices almost always exceed €10 per person, which ranks this restaurant among the expensive ones.
- Špajza. Gornji Trg 28, tel. 01 425 30 94. Closed Sun. This restaurant is much larger than you first expect when you initially enter. You walk through several candlelit rooms before you reach the outside terrace. The waiters are initially quite attentive, serving you a nice little aperitif to get you started. The food is a mixture of Slovenian and European, and the menu is kept to a handful of choices for each course. Because of the service, surroundings and food this felt like an expensive restaurant, although by Western standards, it was quite reasonable. An average main dish is SIT 2,500 (€10.43) to SIT 3,500 (€14.60).
- Manna, Eipprova Ulica 1A, tel 01 283 52 94 [7]. South from the main tourist area, this restaurant serves excellent traditional dishes for about €20 for a full dinner. It boasts "Slow food", but in effect the service is both helpful and fast. The restaurant has friendly and artistic athmosphere.
Drink
Most of Ljubljana’s bars tend to cluster on the streets running parallel to the river, radiating from Prešernov trg, which is the main square in Ljubljana. The more interesting bars tend to be on the backstreets, rather than directly facing the river. Part of the joy of this city is stumbling across these places, but these are few to start you off.
- Čajna Hisa. (The Tea House) Stari trg 3. This is a quirky little coffee and tea room, offering many variations on those warm beverages as well as basic breakfasts and lunches. The background music is impeccably cool, and the atmosphere is ideal for some elegant loafing. Linked to the café is a teashop selling drinking paraphernalia and loads of different fruity flavoured teas by the 100g.
- Patrick's Irish Bar. Precna 6. The ubiqutous Irish Pub with Guinness and Local Beers on tap, with a typical menu of Hearty Meals available. Also typical is the welcoming atmosphere that seems common to all Irish Pubs. Big Screen TVs show sporting events, (mainly football) but bar staff are happy to change a television to show other sports (Rugby Union, Rugby League, Cricket, AFL, NFL etc.) on request. Watch out for ex-pat and tour groups at popular sporting events from their 'home' country.
- Vinoteka Movia. Mestni trg 2. Anyone with any interest in wine should visit here. The cosy, candlelit wine bar comes with knowledgeable barmen who can recommend a wine based on your tastes. The wine glasses are huge, so it’s hard to tell if they were being stingy or if it has simply spread out. Be careful about asking for ‘samples’, as they will charge you full price for the privilege. The prices can vary from modest to a remortgage.
- Okrepcevalnica Makalonca. Hribarjevo nabrežje. The unenticing entrance leads down some steps into a small underground bar that sits level with the river. You can sit inside on stone steps (cushions provided) looking out at the water, or sit outside right by the river. It feels like your own little discovery.
- BI-KO-FE. A lively little bar that plays excellent jazz music (CD, not live). There is outside seating, but inside is where it seems to be happening. It looks like the place the youngish locals hangout to drink the night away.
- K4 is a nice clubbing spot at 4, Kersnikova Trg. National and international DJs play electronic music. Opens Tu-Sun, 10 pm - 2.30/4 am.
- 'Vinoteka Wine cellars of Slovenia'. Dunajska 18. The odlest and biggest wine shop and restaurant in Slovenia is avaliable to anybody that want's to taste a larger variety of Slovenian wines. Located on the Fair ground of Gospodarsko razstavisce in Ljubljana, it houses over 300 slovenian wines from around 150 wine producers. The restaurant serves modern and traditional Slovenian cuisine. There are possibilites of wine tastings, by glass or a guided culinary tour of Slovenian food and wines. They also have great foreign wines, but only a smaller number of them. They also have on some nights live piano music in the background. The prices of wines vary due to the large selection of wines.
Sleep
Budget
Ljubljana offers two all-year hostels (Celica and Bit Hotel) and several student's homes, that function as hostels in the summer.
- Celica (The Cell), Metelkova ulica 8 (400m from bus/railway station), [8]. A redecorated military prison within the former Yugoslav army base of Metelkova, which turned first into a squatter settlement and is now Ljubljana's burgeoning cultural center. Two years ago, the cells of the former prison were assigned to several Slovenian artists, who designed every one of them individually. The Celica hostel was declared to be the best hostel of 2006 in the World by Lonely Planet, which means they've jacked up prices and it's often full. A bed in a cell (2-3 beds) or normal room (3-5) costs 20&euro, give or take a few euros depending on how many you're sharing with, including breakfast. Coin laundry, free internet PCs, pleasant cafe-restaurant. Credit cards accepted.
- Ljubljana Resort (formerly known as Autocamp Ježica), Dunajska 270, (3 km north of the centre, take bus 6 or 8 for 190 (€0.79) -300 SIT (€1.25)), +386 (0)1 568 3913 (fax +386 (0)1 568 3912, email ac.jezica@gp-ljubljana.si)[9]. Pleasant location near river Sava. You can pitch a tent or hire a bungalow. Swimming pool, sauna, fitness centre, badminton, volleyball, bowling, children's playground, restaurant, snack bar. Double bungalow is SIT 15,000 (€62.59) per night including breakfast.
- Park Hotel, Tabor 9. +386 (0)1 300-2500 (fax: +386 (0)1 433-0546, info@hotelpark.si) [10]. This 2-star hotel in fact also a HI hostel and its accommodation is split between hotel and "hostel" rooms. The latter are cheaper but have only an outside bath and no TV. Staff may request to keep your passport at check in, so it might be useful to have a copy to hand in. Single €56.
Mid range
- Short-term apartments [11] Rent vacation rental apartments in the center of the old city of Ljubljana,or in quiet suburbs. a great home base from which to tour the rest of the country, including Lake Bled. $787/week and up.
Splurge
Contact
Internet
Free internet access is available at:
- <listing name="Cyberpipe" address="Kersnikova ulica 6" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="http://www.kiberpipa.org">Closed in summer</listing>
- <listing name="Faculty of Electrical Engineering" address="Trzaska cesta 25" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="http://www.fe.uni-lj.si"></listing>
Stay safe
Cope
Get out
- Postojna Caves[12] - 20 km of underground galleries, chambers and corridors. Guided tour on special cave train takes one and half hour. The temperature in caves is always 8 C. Start of guided tours is at 10.00, 12.00, 14.00 from October to April and on every hour on the hour between 9.00 and 18.00 from May to September.
- Bled
- Kamnik — button-cute little town 45 min away, with a perfectly preserved medieval town center
- Julian Alps
- Crossing the border. Ljubljana has very good links with Croatia, there are regular trains running to Zagreb and Rijeka. Journey time is about 2.5 hours.
By thumb
Hitchhiking out of Ljubljana is relatively easy, in all directions.
From the main street, West of the Train station (Dunajska Cesta) take buses 6, 8 or 10 in direction of North. Get off in the station "Smelt", 15 minutes later, when you see the "World Trade Center" building. Ahead of you, you will see the Autostrada. On the first turn to the right, go into the highway entry and stand on the side with your sign.
From the city center (Dunajska cesta, Kongresni trg) take bus number 6 in direction south, till the last station (Dolgi most). Get out, and on your left side you will side the entry lane into the autostrada. There will also be an entry to a parking of a small house, stand on the side there with your sign (you will see where everybody else stands...).